The Chanel Flap Bag remains one of the most iconic in the brand’s history. The flap over the front has seen a number of changes over the years, while the 1983 update of the original Flap Bag into Karl Lagerfeld’s more modern variation boasts a change in the bag’s clasp, which has remained in place ever since.
From the revolutionary designs created by Coco Chanel herself, to the updates engineered by a designer keen to breathe new life into an iconic brand, Chanel’s Flap Bag and its other collections have undergone distinct evolution and change – all of it only further securing the brand’s place in fashion history.
But how has the Flap Bag changed – and more specifically, how have the locks and clasps evolved?
Chanel’s Reputation as a Fashion Revolutionary
Committed to standing out and being considered ‘irreplaceable’ in the world of fashion, and specifically as a designer, many of Coco Chanel’s creations are unique.
In fact, it is this, combined with the quality of each piece, the craftsmanship behind the use of materials, and the limited supply, which renders every authentic Chanel bag so coveted and in demand among sellers and buyers.
The Classic Flap Bag, formerly known as the 2.55, is one of the most notable because of the way it pushed boundaries. Previously, bags had always used small straps – though Chanel and women in general regarded these as limiting from a functional point of view. The 2.55 was Chanel’s answer for women who wanted to carry a bag but remain hands-free to do other things, giving them a long shoulder strap to loop over their arm.
It took its inspiration from the satchels worn by soldiers during the war, and combined the timeless style of a reputable brand with the function of an accessory created and worn by men during the war.
The shoulder bag took its name from the month and year in which it was released, February 1955 (2.55), and boasted a twisting square lock to fix the flap over the top of the bag.
Now, you might be wondering here what we’re talking about. After all, if the Flap Bag is famous for anything today, it’s the twisting interlocked C for Chanel logo. But that didn’t come about until the 1980s, when Karl Lagerfeld was drafted in to breathe new life into the brand and its designs.
Why the 1980s Marks an Evolution in the Chanel Brand and Designs
The original lock used by Chanel in her Flap Bag and other designs is known as a Mademoiselle lock. This is compiled of a fixed hardware clasp, and a twisting rectangle shape at the centre.
The interlocking Cs was an existing logo that featured in other areas of the bags and pieces designed by Chanel – however, it was in the 1980s that Karl Lagerfeld came in and transformed this logo into a revolutionary clasp for the flap bags. This logo, using the two Cs that link to both the brand name and the initials of the brand’s founder, has become a core part of the bag’s design and what makes it so recognisable.
Throughout the years since, this clasp and lock has been crafted and made available in a range of materials to deliver different finishes, tapping into both original designs from the Chanel team and collaborations with other designers and fashion names.
Of course, it’s easy to view the original 2.55 design and the Classic Flap Bag design as the two main releases and collections – however, we would be doing both the Chanel brand and Karl Lagerfeld himself a disservice if we don’t mention the Reissue collection. Announced and released in 2005, the Reissue collection was a range of bags that were as close as possible to the original’s, brought to life by Chanel herself.
What the launch of the Reissue collection tells us, above all else, is that Chanel has long been committed to its history as well as its future, and is driven by a complex combination of tradition and innovation.
Other Features of the Chanel Flap Bag
Aside from the flap and the clasp that give the Chanel Flap Bag its name, other features include a series of pockets and compartments for the wearer’s possessions, the diamond quilting as seen in the original 2.55, and the combination of simple chain straps and chains interwoven with leather.
As is always the case with a brand as prominent as Chanel, and a bag as iconic as the Flap Bag, material quality remains at the forefront of every individual model. You will typically see caviar, or a traditional lambskin, used in the creation of these bags, due to its soft and supple nature. Limited editions using a variety of other materials have also been experimented with and released, including tweed and plastic materials to name just two.
Is a Chanel Flap Bag a Good Investment?
Now for the question that many buyers want an answer to – is the Chanel Flap Bag, or any authentic Chanel bag, a good investment?
When you buy an authentic Chanel bag, its value only increases with time. What’s more, the diversity in the market and the differing motivations of buyers mean that each different model is popular for different reasons.
The value and high price of an authentic Chanel bag are underpinned by a number of things. These include the scarcity and exclusivity of ownership, the high quality of the materials, the exquisite craftsmanship, and the reputation of the brand, which makes owning a bag akin to retaining part of the designer’s own history.
Of course, what that means is that authenticity is more important than anything when it comes to buying, keeping, and eventually selling a Chanel bag. Dealing with reputable resellers that offer formal valuation services and support is crucial – with the Love Luxury team in London just one example of a boutique that invites sellers to sell their luxury goods directly and browse new investments to add to their collection.
Book an appointment to find out more about buying and selling Chanel bags.