Patek Philippe has been creating horological magic since 1839. The brand, known for its one-off pieces and exclusive releases – many of which move from the manufacturing line directly to known collectors without ever being released to market – has produced some of the most notable, innovative, and delicate timepieces ever seen on the luxury market.
Ever since 1996 and the release of its Generations campaign, Patek Philippe has launched new timepieces and watches under the slogan:
“You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.”
This slogan taps into the underlying privilege held by Patek Philippe watch owners. Not only are these watches rare and difficult to get hold of, but they are finished to such a high standard that there is no question of them outliving generations of buyers.
Never has that been truer than when looking at the Nautilus collection specifically, with this article dedicated to spotlighting some of the most iconic and rare Nautilus watches ever released.
Introducing the Patek Philippe Nautilus
The Nautilus is just one of Patek Philippe’s collections – thought to sit alongside the Grand Complications timepieces as the most coveted and high-value pieces across the entire brand.
Patek Philippe first developed the Nautilus in 1976. It was originally designed by Gerald Genta, who famously designed and brought to life the Royal Oak collection for competitor brand Audemars Piguet.
Genta was renowned across the industry as being a revolutionary. Both the Nautilus and Royal Oak designs consider the audience that both brands attract, with the watches developed in such a way as to bridge the traditions of each brand with where it wants to be in the market.
It is regularly reported and believed that Genta actually designed the Nautilus’ core structure in a few minutes while sitting in a restaurant, inspired by portholes to create the round watch face and nautical elements. The bold and chunky appearance has become a hallmark of the Nautilus, as has the rounded bezel, which compliments the circular porthole design and the embossed dial.
The Nautilus remains one of the top luxury sports watches and blends its underlying function with effortless and timeless style, in much the same way as other iconic watch brands. Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe all have their own approach to functional luxury – the differences lie in the way that the watch is constructed and finished.
Rare Nautilus Models and Pieces
Now that we know a bit of the history of the Nautilus, what is it that makes certain models rarer and more exclusive than others?
For the most part, the rarest models are those that were made as part of limited collections and exclusive collaborations. For example, one of the most notable Nautilus watches and one that sold for 20.4 million Hong Kong dollars in 2023 was the 5711 in Tiffany Blue. The colour of the watch dial is a perfect match with the iconic blue shade that is patented by Tiffany & Co, while an engraved case pays homage to the lasting relationship between the two luxury brands. There were only 170 of these watches made, giving it not just a high price tag but an incredibly exclusive release.
Another rare model worth noting is the Nautilus reference 5720, which was designed to celebrate the launch of Patek Philippe in Shanghai. The watch face was adorned with a dragon, using coloured enamel to give each piece a unique twist. What’s more, this piece boasted a white-gold bracelet and used over 1,600 diamonds in its creation.
And then we have the Nautilus 5711/1A-014 that was produced in 2022 and features the kind of simplicity and elegance that taps directly into the modern affinity for minimalism. With a rich olive-green watch face and stainless steel surrounding case and bracelet, this particular model doesn’t boast any of the bells and whistles of the diamond-encrusted 5720 mentioned above. However, what it does have is the ever-important limited status that instantly makes any luxury release a hit with buyers.
Other rare Nautilus models worth a mention include the full 2006 collection of 5711 and 5712 models, which celebrated the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection and became an instant hit with buyers, owing to the design prowess and historical significance of the range.
If our blogs and guides teach you nothing else, we hope that you’ve learnt just how important limited releases are across the luxury market. When brands like Patek Philippe launch a new model, the supply will always fall well short of anticipated demand – ensuring that each piece that is available has a queue of potential buyers to drive the price high.
Is a Patek Philippe Nautilus a Good Investment?
With all that in mind, and with some insight into the most expensive, rarest Patek Philippe watches on the market, it’s time to consider the investment opportunities available to buyers.
Whether you can afford one of the rarest Nautilus models or not, is a Patek Philippe a good investment regardless?
In short, an authentic Patek Philippe not only holds its value, but can often increase in value, provided you keep it in excellent condition alongside the original packaging and receipts. A formal valuation will help to ensure that any future sales are priced correctly, with boutique resellers providing a comprehensive authentication check and service prior to any purchase or sale.
If you’re keen to invest in a Patek Philippe watch, a Nautilus is not only a renowned and recognisable model but also an effortlessly elegant piece that can be dressed up or down according to your personal style. The versatility of the porthole watch face and the bold bracelet means that a Nautilus watch is just as well suited to formal occasions as it is to being worn out and about.
All of that, combined with the underlying functional components of its design, make the Nautilus a cornerstone of both Patek Philippe’s history and the development of luxury sports watches for buyers.