The Rolex Datejust was launched in 1945 as an anniversary model for the brand, celebrating 40 years since Rolex released its first watch to the market.
Ever since its initial rollout, the Datejust has been recognised as one of Rolex’s most timeless models – insofar as it boasted all the major discoveries and innovations of watchmaking right up to the date of its initial release, and has continued to innovate and be developed in the decades since.
From a horological enthusiast’s perspective, the Rolex Datejust is a must-have for every collection. It showcases all the best of the industry’s innovation, while embracing a timeless finish that is loved by all manner of wearers and collectors. And with an extensive 80-year history at the time of writing in 2025, and no signs of slowing down, the Rolex Datejust seems to have built a solid reputation among vintage and modern watch lovers.
With that said then, what should prospective Datejust buyers look for and consider when buying their very own Rolex Datejust?
1. Vintage vs. Modern Iteration
Undoubtedly the first thing to consider is whether you are looking for a vintage timepiece or something with a few more modern features and finishes.
Unlike other industries where new tends to equate to better, the luxury watch market favours vintage models as much as it does the newer models. When the Rolex Datejust was first released, it was the first of its kind to feature a self-winding chronometer. It also boasted a waterproof case, a window displaying the date on the watch face, and a magnifying cyclops lens to make the date stand out and be easy to read.
For watch enthusiasts who are drawn to Rolex for its unrivalled history and status on the market, a vintage Datejust is akin to owning a piece of history.
However, if you are a buyer who is looking to combine the horological advancements of the Datejust with modern, infinitely timeless style and aesthetics, then you can’t go wrong with a more modern release. Modern designs tend to be more contemporary in their style, boast more complex mechanics, and are built to be incredibly reliable.
The choice between vintage and modern relies upon personal preference and what you want to get from your Rolex Datejust. Both are excellent at holding their value – it’s the aesthetic build and finishes that separate older and newer models.
2. Materials Used
Another thing that buyers and prospective owners need to consider when buying a Rolex Datejust is which materials they are drawn to.
With the Datejust now available in a range of finishes, including Oystersteel (stainless steel), Rolesor (a two-tone blend of steel and gold), or solid gold (available in yellow gold, white gold, or rose gold), owners can choose the finish that best compliments their personal style.
Those fascinated by the history of the Datejust and its position in the prolonged history of Rolex as a brand may be interested to know that the very first Datejust models were available in yellow gold. Other materials were then released to make the wristwatch more accessible and to render it a more versatile accessory on the watch market.
3. Bracelet Style and Size
If you’ve heard of the Datejust, then you are probably also aware of the Lady Datejust – a sleeker and more feminine model, which was brought to life by Hans Wilsdorf as a combination of the Datejust functionality and a more subtle feminine design.
While the main difference between these two versions of the Datejust is in fact the materials used, it’s worth noting that the masculine and more feminine models also have an impact on bracelet size and style.
When choosing a Datejust watch, buyers can opt for the Jubilee bracelet, the President bracelet, or the Oyster bracelet. All of these are available in both the Datejust and Lady Datejust, but boast different finishes, and change the way the watch sits and presents itself on the wrist.
TOP TIP: For first-time Rolex buyers, the best advice is to visit a local boutique reseller and see the different watch face sizes and bracelet types in person – trying on different fits and finishes on your wrist to see which compliments you best.
4. The Type of Bezel
There are two main types of bezel available in the Datejust wristwatch. These are a fluted bezel or a smooth bezel.
In the simplest possible terms, the fluted bezel tends to offer a sportier and slightly more informal look that is perfect for everyday wear, whereas the smooth bezel lends itself to formal dress.
The choice between these two can be impacted by availability and whether you are looking for a Rolex to wear on special occasions or to complement your lifestyle. Either way, seeing these different finishes in person is a good way to understand their influence on the presentation of the timepiece.
Is a Datejust Worth Purchasing?
As is so often the case with genuine Rolex timepieces, an authentic Datejust is a long-lasting piece that retains both its quality and appeal throughout the duration of your ownership (and often beyond). Released to mark Rolex’s 40th anniversary, the Datejust occupies a special place in the brand’s history, having been refined and reimagined over the subsequent years and decades.
As one of Rolex’s most iconic models, boasting timeless style and a remarkable blend of features, it’s hardly surprising that the Datejust remains highly sought after. Combined with the prestige of the Rolex name and the inherent value of its materials, the Datejust continues to be a leading choice for those seeking a classic watch with enduring allure.
You’ll find Datejust models at select local boutique resellers as well as through luxury auctions. Selecting your perfect piece involves taking into account the points discussed in this article—ranging from its visual design to how you intend to wear it day to day.