Rolex is renowned in the world of watchmaking for pushing boundaries and bringing new solutions to the market, time and time again. In the 1920s, waterproof cases were already becoming an integral part of the Rolex repertoire, though they did not fully come to fruition until the rollout of the Submariner watch in the 1950s.
However, while this article is undoubtedly focussed on the rise of the Submariner and its popularity as arguably Rolex’s most coveted and famous professional watch, the story begins a little earlier.
In the 1920s, the oyster case was developed. These were recognised as being waterproof, and Rolex used British professional swimmers in their marketing drive. The Submariner was born from a much later consumer demand and desire for a watch that remained waterproof to great depths, tapping into the rising popularity of diving as a commercialised and leisure activity.
Introducing the Rolex Submariner
Upon its release in 1953, the Submariner quickly became an icon in the horological world – not just encapsulating all the features of a professional diving watch but doing so with effortless, timeless elegance and style.
Boasting an oyster steel case, black dial, and a rotating bezel that allowed a diver to track their time underwater, not to mention the ability to hold its waterproofing to a depth of 100m, the Submariner became the go-to tool for divers. What’s more, it became one of the first and most notable wrist watches in Rolex’s professional series.
To buy a Submariner is to buy not just a valuable and highly sought-after Rolex but also a piece of the brand’s history. But what should buyers and prospective buyers look for when considering a Rolex Submariner that they want to buy?
1. Preferred Model
The numbers that you see after the name of each Rolex refer to its exact model. The very first Submariner is referenced as the 6204 and was swiftly followed by the 6205 – now known as the 6200 series, which boasts an oversized winding crown as part of the core design.
Over time, new collections were launched, utilising different materials and with varying design traits and characteristics. You will notice, as you browse the different Submariner models, that some were tailormade for specific uses – for example, James Bond famously wore his Submariner with a thin leather strap, before upgrading to a nylon NATO strap in later movies.
Regardless, however, of any changes in outer design, the Submariner is an industry favourite that has retained the core values of its original – that is, the original concept has been protected and has remained the same throughout the decades and ever-changing collections. The outer shell might have adapted to trends and to different collections’ advances and requirements, but the main product is the same as it has always been. This is a characteristic of Rolex that countless buyers value.
2. Vintage vs. Modern
While we’re on the topic of Submariner models, what differentiates the earlier timepieces from the modern watches that have catapulted the Rolex brand to new heights among a contemporary audience?
Material finish is by far the most noticeable difference between the vintage Submariners and the more modern designs. Over time, sapphire crystal cuts, two-tone metallics, ceramic bezels, and precious gems have all adorned different limited models and collections – meaning that one of the most important things for any buyer to consider is the ideal look of their Submariner.
This will depend largely on whether they plan to wear their piece or enjoy ownership of it for themselves and for the next generation. Submariners have famously been worn in Bond movies, on the red carpet, and out and about by some of the world’s top A-list celebrities – meaning there is a place for every kind of Rolex Submariner.
3. Authenticity of the Piece
Unfortunately, with such high-value luxury goods, there remains a risk of counterfeit goods being marketed and sold to unwitting buyers. Checking the authenticity of a watch and asking to see formal proof of certification are important parts of navigating the purchase process in order to protect your purchase.
Just some of the hallmark traits of counterfeit Rolex goods include incorrect logos or logo placement, spelling errors on the watch face, an unexpectedly light watch, and a lack of proper water resistance. Some Rolex models also have cyclops lens features that can be a sign of counterfeiting if a cyclops lens is found on the wrong piece, and you can check that the serial number is properly engraved on the back.
The best thing to do if you are considering buying a Rolex Submariner is research and find a reputable reseller who will allow you to visit the store and see different Submariner models in person. This not only provides a sense of authenticity and reliability but also helps you in choosing the best model for you.
Should You Buy a Submariner?
All things considered then, is a Rolex Submariner a good jewellery piece for you?
As one of the most coveted and sought-after timepieces on the market, finding a genuine Rolex Submariner for sale is rare in most regular circles – with genuinely motivated buyers needing to trawl auctions and reseller boutiques and sites to find their perfect piece.
Owing to the exceptionally limited supply, which is only exacerbated by Rolex’s exclusive and very small collection rollouts with each new batch of models, demand remains high, with waitlists surrounding each new watch. This contributes towards the high value and keeps the resale price of any Submariner sky high.
Add to that the high-quality materials and the exquisite levels of craftsmanship that have put Rolex at the forefront of the market for over 120 years, and it’s little wonder a genuine timepiece is such a valuable piece to own.
Visit your local London or Dubai reseller to browse their collection of Submariner watches and to make your own mind up about whether it’s better to choose vintage or modern.