The Hermès Kelly bag has a history of over 90 years; though, for the first 20 years of its existence, it was known under a different name: the Hermès Sac à Dépêches.
In fact, it was only when the bag featured in a Hitchcock movie, and was subsequently used by the movie’s actress Grace Kelly at a press event to hide her baby bump, that the bag really became a style icon. Until then, the bag had merely faded into the background of a growing Hermès collection.
Today, the Hermès Kelly is on a par with the Birkin as one of the most coveted and popular bags of all time. Each Kelly reportedly takes between 18 and 25 hours to handcraft and combines its simple but functional style with the kind of finish that makes it a luxury must-have for everyday use to red-carpet appearances.
Whether you’re seeking out your first Hermès bag or looking to expand your collection with a new investment, here are five things to consider when researching and buying a Kelly.
1) The Size of the Kelly Bag
The Kelly bag features a number of characteristics that separate it from the Birkin, despite the two being equally popular and high in demand.
The Kelly is crafted in a trapezoid shape that is more triangular than the Birkin – and comes in a broader range of sizes. Size is often the first thing that buyers pay attention to, as there is a huge discrepancy in the functional purpose and look of a Mini Kelly compared with the Kelly 40 or even 50. The Mini Kelly, also known as the Kelly 20, measures just 20cm in length, while the larger 40 and 50 models are often used as travel bags.
Typically, buyers turn to the Kelly 28, the Kelly 32, or the Kelly 35 as the classic sizes – with the added shoulder strap that the Kelly offers making even the smaller models more versatile in how they can be worn or used.
2) Sellier or Retourne?
Once you’ve made the decision to look at Hermès Kelly bags as opposed to the Birkin bags, you need to turn your attention to the structural look of the bag.
The Kelly bag is typically available in two different finishes. One is known as the Sellier, and the other is the Retourne, and while both are made in the same way, the attention to stitching is where the two bags differ.
The Sellier is much more rigid in its structure, with stitching around the outside of the bag holding it firmly in place. The Retourne offers a more relaxed aesthetic and shape, with the stitching held on the inside of the bag, softening the edges and making the bag feel a bit more informal.
From a buyer’s perspective, the choice between the Sellier and Retourne has a huge impact on the use and look of their bag.
3) Colours and Finishes
Moving on from the structure of the bag, colour and the hardware finish of a buyer’s ideal bag play a part in everything from availability to value. The Kelly bag comes in a wide assortment of leather types, which impact its durability and texture as well as its look.
Most Kelly bags come with palladium or gold-plated hardware, though it has been known for bags to be crafted using 24K gold – driving the price even higher and shrouding the piece in the kind of exclusivity that makes it difficult to find. From a colour perspective, while there are bags like the Himalaya Kelly that rely as much on the value of the material as on the craftsmanship of the bag, choosing the best colour as a buyer has to come from personal preference as much as what’s on trend and what’s popular.
4) Models That Reach Outside the Box
There are of course those Kelly bags that sit outside the box. These are often the result of collaborations and one-off experiments – for example, the Kelly Lakis bag, the Kelly Pochette, and the Kelly Elan with its fringing across the front of the bag’s main body.
Leaning on the founding shape and hallmarks of a Kelly bag, each of these unique pieces incorporates its own decorative detail. Even the So Kelly, which boasts a relaxed shape and finish and a much longer body than a classic Kelly, still boasts the classic Kelly detail and clip across the front of the bag.
As a buyer, choosing between a classic Hermès Kelly and one of these more unique creations is part of the journey – taking into account personal preference as much as the resale value and investment potential of each piece.
5) Where to Buy Your Kelly Bag
The final thing to consider when buying an Hermès Kelly bag is where to buy your piece. Kelly bags are notoriously expensive, owing to the lack of supply and high demand, which pushes the already high prices even higher on the resale market.
Getting your hands on a brand-new Kelly is near impossible, given all the waitlists and the limited releases, meaning that, for most buyers, it is secondary markets, boutique resellers, and auctions that you will need to frequent. However, this is where buyers need to be careful, taking steps to avoid counterfeit goods and scam sellers.
The signs of a reputable reseller include the option to have items valued on site, and proper attention around product certification and various authentication checks. Finally, a good reseller will have a selection of items to choose from, with ever-changing stock as they buy new luxury goods and part with other items to different buyers.
To see what’s available and to compare different Kelly bags and sizes in person, head to your local boutique reseller and ask to see their collection.
